Introduction
When the Covid-19 restrictions in the UK were relaxed enough to permit travel, and just when I thought I was going to explode from the confinement, I took the opportunity of a week’s break in Corfu. The advantage of a visit in early Autumn quickly became evident as the season afforded a chance to enjoy the island with fewer crowds, only the odd cruise ship in port and fair weather most days.
Corfu Town
I based myself in Corfu Town (in Greek, Κέρκυρα – Kerkyra or Kerkira when in Roman script).
Paleokastritsa
My first trip was across the island by bus to Paleokastritsa on Corfu’s rugged west coast. Surrounded and sheltered by spectacular craggy cliffs fringed with greenery, the resort is scattered across two or three beautiful bays. The azure sea that gently laps on Paleokastritsa’s shores precisely epitomises the Mediterranean that I envisage when day-dreaming on a dreary work day.
By ascending a twisty little road on one particular rocky outcrop, I reached the monastery perched at its summit.
Kassiopi
The relaxed northern village of Kassiopi is also easily reached by bus from Corfu town. Here, after a pleasant afternoon on the beach and in the beautiful (full of little fish) sea, I enjoyed a really memorable moment: sitting, as the sun slowly sets behind the rugged hills, on the gleaming white pebble beach, listening to the waves gently wash ashore while a chap casts a line in the water, looking across the deep blue sea to the golden city of Sarandë, Albania on the horizon. It’s very hard to get better than this and was simply agonising to have to tear myself away to catch the last bus of the day.
Issos & Lake Korission
My final excursion was a trip to the nature reserve at Lake Korission and the adjacent broad beach at Issos. I had a plan to try to walk around the lake but the walking is not great from this end. In retrospect, it may have been better to go to the Halikounas end of the lake but only Issos is served by bus, thus the decision was made. The initial views were good with a great variety of birdlife visible on the lake, most spectacular of which are the flamingos. Thereafter, the walking became somewhat heavy going in sand and scrub and the views obscured by vegetation, till I picked up the path again. It would be great if a boardwalk or path went right round the lake as it might encourage visitors while helping preserve the environment. On that note, something that surprised and concerned me was the sheer number of discarded shotgun cartridges littering the ground – in a nature reserve.
Issos beach and the adjoining, albeit separated by a canal between lake and sea, Halikounas beach are quite exposed to wind and strong seas and as such are a popular spot for kite surfing. Rental facilities and other water sports activities are available on the beach. The strong breeze and tidy may make swimming a touch risky and certainly sunbathing on the ranks of loungers by the low-rise resort buildings could be a touch unpleasant when the wind is high.
Things to do
- Old Venetian Fort
- New Venetian Fortress
- Mon Repos
- Kanonni
- Boat Trips
- Museums
- British Cemetery
Restaurants in Corfu Town
Fishalida (Φυσαλίδα)
Seafood
A very good seafood restaurant which I believe is owned or connected with the fishmonger next door, and the freshness and quality this might imply certainly shone through in the food. I had a very generous portion of prawn saganaki full of abundant plump, sweet prawns and then seabass fillet with pea puree. The food was beautifully presented and the meal rounded off with coffee and a complimentary orange cake. Wine by the glass was very keenly priced. On balance I’d have preferred to eat in the elegant air-conditioned dining room, but it was fun enough to enjoy watching life go by from the pavement terrace location, directly opposite the public market.
Fishalida, 11, Lochagou Spiridonos Vlaikou 1, Kerkira 491 00, Greece
+302661082150
To Pikantiko (Το Πικάντικο)
Gyros
The best gyros I had was from a shop called Το Πικάντικο (To Pikantiko, “The Spicy”) which I believe Rick Stein visited in his Mediterranean Escapes series some years ago. Dedicated viewers may recall the amusing scene where a duly-chastened Rick was told never to call gyros “kebabs”, because that’s what they call it in Turkey! It’s a tiny place on Plateia Vrachlioti. I sat by the same well that Rick did and savoured my juicy pork gyros in its fluffy pitta amid the comforting ambience of the Corfiot evening.
To Pikantiko, Nikiforou Theotoki 30, Kerkira 491 00, Greece
+302661049054
Accommodation in Corfu Town
Celestia
Self-catering apartment
I spent a most comfortable week at Celestia, a cosy little apartment in an old building right in the heart of Corfu Old Town. The fantastic location immerses the guest directly in the abundant atmosphere of the old town with its quaint alleys and historic buildings providing a picturesque backdrop to a vibrant lifestyle. Host Yulli made me most welcome and was always on hand via WhatsApp to offer help and suggestions. Indeed, her local knowledge is such that my Marco Polo guidebook never left my suitcase. I would happily recommend this flat, primarily for solo travellers or couples.
Travel to and around Corfu
Flights to Corfu
I travelled to Corfu by air with Jet2. The headline ticket price was low – in part due to low demand during the “situation” – but charges for baggage and options can add up substantially. The route over Austria on the way out afforded glorious views of the Alps and then of Corfu while circling to land. The return flight was similarly enjoyable with Albania and the folded landscape of the Croatian coast in clear view.
From the UK and Ireland, as well as Jet2, Ryanair, Easyjet, British Airways and Aer Lingus offer direct flights. Most major European destinations are also connected. However, schedules are greatly reduced outside the high season.
Corfu Airport
Corfu Airport, formally Ioannis Kapodistrias International Airport, is a small airport just outside town. It’s arguably within walking distance of the town centre if one is not dragging heavy bags in Greek summer heat. The airport is pleasant enough but lacks facilities and the food & drink offering is quite pricey. I could imagine it will get crowded in peak season as space was at a premium in waiting areas even with the reduced demand.
The highlight of the airport is, of course, its famous approach over the sea. If landing from this direction, the plane appears to be heading for the drink only for land to suddenly appear and touch down is made on the lakeside runway. It’s certainly an invigorating way to start your holiday.
Public Transport in Corfu
Corfu City Bus
Bus transport within Corfu Town and to several nearby resorts and places of interest is provided by Corfu City Bus. These are blue and white buses, modern, efficient, and very reasonably priced. Tickets are cheaper (from €1.10 per single fare, at Sep. 2021) if bought before boarding, from vending machines, ticket office or kiosks, though the full fare is still very low. Day tickets are available.
All City Bus routes connect at San Rocco square in the town centre, with various stops and an information office distributed around the square. Line 15 connects the airport to the town and stops en route outside the Green bus station to connect with longer-distance routes.
Green Buses
Green Buses operate from a modern station about 20-25 minutes’ walk from central Corfu Town. Routes cover most of the island and a few destinations on the Greek mainland. Fares are again extremely reasonable, and transport is mainly in modern air-conditioned coaches.
The timetable is slightly odd as it only quotes set times for beginning and end of the route; one must estimate when the bus might arrive at an interim stop. I assume it’s due to the difficulty of scheduling a precise timetable given unpredictable traffic conditions on some narrow roads or in congested resorts.
That said, I found the buses did work surprisingly well. When starting to wonder about this haphazard scheduling, and when in a village a potentially expensive taxi ride away from my apartment, it was a relief to see the bus appear on the dot. I also commend the bus drivers who negotiate daily some tricky turns on twisty rural roads. It’s not an easy job, but for passengers, these buses offer great views of the Corfiot landscape and an affordable way to get around.